Humans love gear. If you've ever seen a cyclist mincing into a café with his special pedal-shoes and his brightly colored tights, you know how far humans are willing to go just because they love gear. Gear helps us do the things we love to do, and it also helps us show everyone else that we do cooler things than they do. Most of us are more mature about it than cyclists--I mean, how often have you seen a climber getting a cup of coffee wearing his wall shoes with a rope over his shoulder and full rack of cams hanging from his harness?--but we all love our gear.
Unfortunately, the coolest gear for cavers is vertical gear, and this is not for the beginner. In addition, half the other stuff you can pick up at any sporting goods or hardware store.
| Boots | Gloves | Coveralls | Knee and Elbow Pads | Helmet |
| Headlamps | Cave Bags | Wetsuits | Other Clothes | Vertical Gear |
| Boots |
|---|
| You need boots to protect your feet and for traction. I don't recommend shoes, because mud can pull them off, and even an easy cave is tough hopping on one foot. However, you don't need very fancy boots. Many cavers prefer ordinary wellies. Back to top. |
| Gloves |
Not absolutely required, but definitely a good idea. Just any ordinary pair of
gardener's gloves will do for most caves (though leather is required for lava
caves. Toughness is more of an issue than warmth.
The gloves we prefer (that is, Mrs. Hopper and I), are pictured on the left. They are elastic fabric wiith rubber over the palms and fingers. They are cheap, light, and fairly tough, and much more supple than leather gloves.Back to top. |
| Coveralls |
|
Many cavers will tell you this is a requirement, but they are wrong. Coveralls
will help keep you warm and protect your clothing, but if you clothing is tough
and cold isn't an issue, I'd avoid them.
The coveralls to get, if you need them, are ballistic nylon. These run about $200 Canadian, and have two advantages. The first is that they are tough. The second is that they are slick, which helps on those long belly crawls. However, they are very hot and if you have trouble keeping cool, these are a hazard. I met a caver who uses nomex coveralls, the type worn by USAF pilots, and liked them a lot. They're a little cheaper than ballistic nylon, and a little cooler. She's the only one I've seen wearing them, and I haven't been able to locate a set for myself, but I like the idea. I can't recommend the cotton coveralls you get at Mark's Work Warehouse and similar stores. They are fine for their intended purpose, but that purpose isn't caving. They tend to bunch up, snag and bind. If they get wet, they stay wet, and you end up hauling an extra ten pounds of water around with you. I never wear coveralls. The only time I've regretted the decision was coming out of Moira Cave, Ontario, and discovering that my pants were ripped belt to knee in front and back. That in itself wasn't as uncomfortable as the fact that it was a long walk back to the car with my underwear hanging out. Back to top. |
| Knee and Elbow Pads |
If you aren't crawling, you aren't caving. And if you're crawling, you WILL
want knee pads. But what kind?
There are specially made caver knee and elbow pads (pictured right) available through Bob and Bob's or other caver specialty stores. They are tough and functional, but make up for it by being expensive. And I find they don't stay in place very well (though people who wear coveralls and wear the pads under the coveralls don't have this problem). Many people use rollerblading knee and elbow armour. I dislike it because they are hard and you can't feel the shape of the rock beneath them. This can be an issue when chimneying, but otherwise, isn't. I use soccer knee pads, which cost about $10 Canadian and are easy to find. They do tend to wear out after a few trips on rough rock. I use a smaller size, thinner knee pad for elbow pads. My wife found a thick neoprene wetsuit at Value Village for $6, and cut it up to make knee and elbow pads. These are thick and tough, and have the advantage of covering the sides of her joints as well. If you are lucky enough to score a used wetsuit for cheap, you might want to try it. Don't get those pads used for gardening and concrete work. These are very good for protecting your knees when kneeling, but they aren't made for crawling and walking. You'll end up hating them Back to top. |
| Helmet |
|
Non-negotiable. If they only protected you from the minor cuts and goose eggs
you get from whacking your head on a low ceiling, they'd be worth it. Think of
it this way: if you are wearing a helmet, it is because you believe there is
something in your head worth protecting. If you aren't wearing a helmet, then
whatever is in your head isn't that valuable.
Almost any helmet will do, though those with hooks and straps to keep headlamps in place are preferable. Avoid those with visors, because this casts a shadow from your head lamp and cuts visibility. Back to top. |
| Headlamps |
|
Also non-negotiable. If you end up suddenly needing to use your hands, you
don't want to lose your light because of it. The two main kinds are with
incandescent bulbs (halogen if you can get it) and LED. Incandescent casts
light farther, but not as bright, and they go through batteries. LED last
forever, and produce a very good, wide light, but it doesn't go very far. I
have both, one mounted over the other. Some lamps have both, allowing to swich
from one to the other, or have both at the same time.
But what about carbide? Carbide is a chemical which, when mixed with water, prdouces a flammable gas. In carbide lamps, the carbide is kept in one chamber, and the water drips into it slowly. The gas produced escapes through a hole in the front of the lamp, which is ignited. By controlling the rate of drip, you can control the size of the flame. Carbide-users tend to sneer at battery users the way DOS-users tended to sneer at Macs in the eighties. Nothing makes you feel more like a real caver than using nineteenth century technology when something better is readily available. The advantage of carbide is that it produces a very pretty light, it is awkward, bulky, expensive and possibly dangerous. The disadvantages are too numerous to recount. Current LED headlamps are cheaper and easier to use. The batteries last longer than carbide does, at a fraction of the weight and bulk. And if all of this weren't true, there is still a valid reason for rejecting carbide: I have never encountered little piles of batteries in a cave, but I have never been in a cave which did not have piles of used carbide. If you love your carbide lamp, I don't want to lessen your enjoyment. Many
better cavers than I prefer carbide. But it isn't carbide that makes them
better cavers. If anything, it requires a better caver to make use of an
awkward, anachronistic system. If you're a new caver, get a battery lamp and don't let the old farts bother you. Just sit there smiling, ready to start caving, while they dink around with their fussy systems. Back to top. |
| Cave Bags |
Because you will want to carry back-up lights, water, food, etc., you will want
a small cave bag. Normal back packs will work, but they aren't the best. Many
people use seal bags (for canoeing and kayaking) with a shoulder strap attached.
These are a little awkward to open and close, and tend to get torn up, but are
otherwise pretty good.
I use a normal scoliosis bag, which is good for dry caves. However in wet caves, water tends to pour in and trickle out, which is irritating. And speaking of irritating, there is this bag pictured on the right. It is especially designed for cavers, presumably by a person who disliked cavers. It's closure is ineffective, the straps are misplaced. The whole system is completely stupid. Don't be misled. Don't get one. Back to top. |
| Other Clothes |
|
I highly recommend that you wear other clothes, but it isn't absoutely
necessary. I was with a small group of cavers going through West Virginia's
Sinks of Gandy, a fairly lightweight river cave. At the exit, we turn around to
see a group of thirty cavers coming up behind us, wearing helmets, knee pads,
boots...and nothing else. Apparently, nude caving is an established tradition
at the Old Timers' Convention.
I have nothing against nudity. It looks great on some people. But because of a scheduling problem or something, these people weren't at the Sinks of Gandy. Instead of seeming uninhibited and free-spirited, our nude cavers just seemed immature, along the lines of guys who ignite their farts with a cigarette lighter. But no one said you have to be mature to be a caver. If nude caving is your thing, have fun. If you do decide on other clothes, go for something that won't bind you or get shredded on the rocks. If cold is an issue, Polypro® socks and long underwear are useful. A fleece vest will also keep you warm. Jeans aren't the best choice, and sweat pants are just stupid. If you wear pants with an elastic waistband, you'll be wearing them around your knees at the end of those long belly crawls. Again, if that's you're thing, have fun. Back to top. |
| Wetsuits |
|
The disadvantage of a wetsuit is that it is expensive, shreddable and
very hot. But if you are going to spend a lot of time in cave water,
it might be necessary. They are required for some caves.
However, if you have a tendency to overheat, don't put it on until absolutely necessary, or you will pass out with the first sustained exertion. Back to top. |
| Vertical Gear |
|
Now this is the cool stuff: jumars, gibbs, carabiners, rappel racks...it's all
sooo cool.
Unfortunately, I can't give you much advice here, because it's a fairly serious matter, and I just don't know enough. Talk to any experienced vertical caver and they will emphatically tell a lot of facts about vertical gear. In all likelihood, some of it will be true, and it's just as likely that you won't have any idea which is true and which isn't. I had a very experienced caver tell me that a six inch fall using a grigri for a braking device would sever the rope. That isn't merely ignorant, it's ludicrous. Do lots of research. On Rope is the best place to start. Take the attitude that a misinformed choice could cost the lives of you and your fellow cavers. Back to top. |
Cyclists and their Gear Allright, I
realise that the above characterisation is offensive. But if you stroll about
the city in neon tights, you have to expect some derision. Now I know that
there are all sorts of reasons why the cyclists' gear has to be what it is. Most
of the reasons make some sense when racing, but not when peddaling around the
city. And at what point does dignity kick in?
I realise that you guys are saving the planet by avoiding nasty, polluting,
resource-gobbling cars (and mowing down slower pedestrians whose genes need
weeding out). And I also understand that planet-saving requires special
fashions. Just look at the Power Rangers.
A grigri is a mechanical braking deviced used for belaying climbers. Nearly all climbing gyms in North America use them, because they are easy and very safe. They don't make good ascenders, because they were designed for something else, but they don't make good rope cutters, either.
email Rockhopper
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |